After visiting Portugal 3 times already, I can say that this country is my favourite destination in the South of Europe. The people are friendly, the beaches are the best in Europe and the food is very good for a fish lover like me. So when I received an invitation to go surfing in Central Portugal, I said yes before I even checked my agenda. If you have already read my guides to the Alentejo and Porto, you already know Portugal is worth more than one trip.

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Portugal surfing: Figueira da Foz

After an easy 2.5 hour flight from Amsterdam to Porto, we arrive in Figueira da Foz. I did not know this place yet, but it is becoming more popular among surfers because of the famous 1-mile-long right waves. We arrive in the evening so first it is time to eat. We visit restaurant Marégrafo. Within a minute we have olives, bread with melted cheese and sardines on the table. The wine with the Marégrafo label is very good. Tomorrow I will have to show my not-so-perfectly-developed surf skills, so I allow myself one glass of the red wine.

The next morning, after a good night’s sleep, we get into our wetsuits. I am travelling with 4 good surfers and they are not scared of a little rain: you will get wet anyway. João, our surf guide from Naturexperience, hands me a brand new wetsuit. After a 15-minute battle with the suit and myself, this sausage is ready to conquer some waves. It has been 7 years since I last surfed in Australia. After a couple of nose dives I finally manage to stand up on the board again. Hallelujah.

Best hotels in Figueira da Foz

– Click on the names for rooms and rates –

Bacharéis Charming House is a characterful property in the centre of Figueira da Foz with individually designed rooms and a personal atmosphere. The kind of place that makes you extend your stay.

ROOMS AT BACHAREIS CHARMING HOUSE

Dona Maria Hotel is a well-positioned option in Figueira da Foz with comfortable rooms and a good base for exploring the coast and the surf spots nearby.

We Surf House is the obvious choice if you are here specifically for the waves. Run by surfers, designed for surfers and located close to the beach. Board storage, wetsuit drying space and the kind of breakfast that actually prepares you for a morning in the water.

ROOMS AND RATES WE SURF HOUSE

Nazaré: monster waves and where to stay

In the afternoon we drive to Nazaré. This old fishing village is famous for the biggest rideable waves in the world. Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara surfed a 78-foot (23.77 metres) wave here, setting a world record. Only a handful of surfers are up for that challenge. The surfers are launched into the waves by a jet ski to give them the speed they need. I decide to lie in the sun instead, since I want to be able to sit up straight for dinner.

There is a small museum where you can see the surfboards used by some of the Nazaré heroes. The boards are much heavier than normal surfboards. A Best of Nazaré guided tour covers the lighthouse viewpoint, the village and the story behind the giant waves in one go. A good option if you want context before standing at the cliff looking down.

Nazaré is also a proper town worth spending time in. We have dinner at restaurant Taberna d’Adélia. The olives, the cheese, the squid, the bread. For dessert a number of small jars with different flavours: cheesecake, banoffee, chocolate and coconut mousse and Portuguese custard. My favourite restaurant of the trip.

Best hotels in Nazaré

– Click on the names for rooms and rates –

Lookout Nazaré has what the name promises: a position above the town with views over the Atlantic. The rooms are well designed and the location makes it easy to walk to both the lighthouse viewpoint and the beach below.

ROOMS AND RATE LOOKOUT NAZARE

Feel Nazaré / Saudade 57 is a guesthouse with a personal feel and a good central location. The kind of place where the owner knows which restaurant to send you to and is right about it.

Peniche: the best surf spots in Central Portugal

After last night’s desserts I can use a workout. We drive to Peniche. The world’s best surfers love this place because of the perfect tubular waves. We visit the SPO Surfboard Factory, where the surfboards for the Nazaré monster waves are made. They are building a special miniboard for a talented 8-year-old surfer. Hopefully not for Nazaré. Not yet.

Peniche has a number of surf spots so you will always find a place with the right conditions. Good options are Almagreira, Consolação, Lagide, Molhe Leste and Praia Norte. Praia Norte is the one for beginners. I spend the whole afternoon in the water until the sun goes down. Surfing is addictive. If you want a lesson, the surf lessons in Peniche for beginners, intermediate and advanced are well run and cover all levels. My tip: book ahead in July and August, spots fill quickly.

Peniche is also the departure point for the Berlengas Archipelago, a group of protected islands about 10 kilometres offshore. The Berlengas glass-bottom boat and cave tour is a good half-day trip: clear water, sea caves and the kind of marine life you do not see from the beach.

Taberna d’Adélia | Nazaré | Portugal surfing

Best hotels in Peniche

– Click on the names for rooms and rates –

Pillows Peniche B&B is a well-reviewed option in Peniche with a relaxed atmosphere and a good breakfast. Close to the surf spots and easy to get to from the town centre.

At Maries Peniche 4 Green is a sustainable guesthouse with a personal feel. The hosts know the area well and the location works for both the beaches and the town.

THE BEST RENTAL CARS FOR YOUR ROAD TRIP

Peniche | Portugal surfing

Getting around: Portugal surfing road trip

A car is essential for this route. Figueira da Foz, Nazaré and Peniche are spread along the Central Portugal coast and not well connected by public transport. Having a car also means you can stop at smaller surf spots and beaches along the way, which is where the best waves often are. Discover Cars has the best comparison rates for Portugal. Book before you arrive; summer rates go up fast. For transfers to and from the airport, WelcomePickups is the most reliable option. Stay connected on the road with an eSIM from Saily.

If this Portugal surfing road trip is part of a wider Portugal trip, read my guides to Ericeira, surfing in the Algarve and Lisbon.

Portugal surfing: frequently asked questions

Where is the best surfing in Central Portugal?

Peniche is the most consistent surf destination in Central Portugal, with spots for all levels. Praia Norte is good for beginners and Supertubos is the wave that draws the professionals. Nazaré is for watching rather than surfing for most people; the waves there are not suited for regular surfers. Figueira da Foz is less known but has long right waves that work well when the conditions are right.

THE BEST RENTAL CARS FOR YOUR ROAD TRIP

Is Nazaré good for surfing?

Nazaré is famous for the biggest waves in the world, but those are not for regular surfers. The monster waves at Praia do Norte are ridden by a very small number of specialist big wave surfers using jet ski assistance. For most visitors, Nazaré is a place to watch, not surf. The Best of Nazaré guided tour gives you the full story behind the waves and the village.

Can beginners surf in Peniche?

Yes. Praia Norte in Peniche is one of the better beginner beaches on this stretch of coast. The surf lessons in Peniche cover all levels from beginners to advanced. Book in advance in summer.

What else is there to do in Peniche besides surfing?

The Berlengas Archipelago is the main day trip from Peniche. The glass-bottom boat and cave tour to Berlengas is a good half-day on the water with sea caves and clear Atlantic water. The islands are a protected nature reserve so the marine life is in good shape.

When is the best time for Portugal surfing?

September to November is the best period for surf in Central Portugal. The swells are consistent, the weather is still warm and the crowds are smaller than in summer. Summer (June to August) has smaller waves but is good for beginners and for the beach towns themselves. Winter produces the biggest waves, including the Nazaré giants, but is not ideal for a casual surf trip.

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