Where do you stay in a country with 2 coastlines, beautiful beaches, a mountain range and the oldest colonial city in the Americas? Most people answer that question with a resort in Punta Cana. We did too, at first, until we drove 3 hours north to Samaná and found small hotels, empty beaches and the best Piña Colada of the entire trip. The resort wristband turns out to be optional. This guide builds on my Dominican Republic travel guide and focuses on 1 question: which region, which hotel?

I stayed in La Romana, Punta Cana, Santo Domingo and Samaná. Below you will find those 4 hotels, plus my shortlist for Cabarete, Puerto Plata and Jarabacoa, based on research rather than my own pillow. The Dominican Republic is more of a couples and families destination than a backpacker one. Travelling solo? It works best in places where you can walk to dinner, and I have marked those along the way.

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Where to stay in the Dominican Republic: the regions compared

The Dominican Republic has 6 regions that work as a base, and they have almost nothing in common. Samaná is green and slow, Punta Cana is resorts and wide beaches, Santo Domingo is a real city. Accommodations range from all inclusive resorts on Bávaro Beach to boutique hotels with 5 rooms and a garden.

My own route ran from La Romana to Punta Cana, Santo Domingo and finally Samaná. If I had to keep only 2 of those stops, it would be Santo Domingo and Samaná. They felt the least like everywhere else.

Las Terrenas and Samaná: the best region for boutique hotels

Samaná is where I would send anyone who wants a boutique hotel instead of a resort. This green peninsula in the northeast feels like an entirely different country. Far fewer resorts, far more soul. After a 3-hour drive from Santo Domingo we arrived just in time to watch the sunset over Las Terrenas with a Coconut Mojito in hand. Not a bad way to check in.

The Samaná Peninsula is best for nature lovers and, from January to March, for whale watching. It is the tropical paradise most people picture when they book Punta Cana, minus the crowds. Playa Cosón, Playa Bonita, Playa Rincón and many others are backed by little more than palm trees.

Las Terrenas is the walkable beach village on the north side of the peninsula, full of restaurants and cafés. Samaná town sits on the bay on the south side. That is where the whale watching boats leave from January to March.

Samaná Peninsula | Where to stay in the Dominican Republic

Best hotels in Las Terrenas and Samaná

The Bannister Hotel & Yacht Club was our base in Samaná. It overlooks Samaná Bay, has its own marina and 2 beautiful infinity pools. Absolutely loved this hotel. Handy for whale watching. Less handy for strolling into Las Terrenas: that is a drive. Las Terrenas is on the other side of the peninsula.

Leeloo Boutique Hotel has 5 rooms in a tropical garden, a pool and breakfast included. It is adults only, and Playa Las Ballenas is about 700 metres away. My personal pick if you want quiet without being isolated. Highly recommended!

Mahona Boutique Hotel has 10 Balinese-style rooms plus villas with their own pool, less than 5 minutes on foot from the beach in Las Terrenas. No children under 12.

One of the best things I ate on the entire trip was at restaurant Luis on Playa Cosón. The menu is simple: catch of the day or chicken. I ordered the octopus with fried green banana, rice and beans. Fresh seafood at its most basic, and I mean that as a compliment. They also served the best Piña Coladas of the holiday.

Punta Cana and Cap Cana: luxury resorts close to the airport

Punta Cana is the easiest choice in the Dominican Republic. You land at Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ) and reach your hotel within half an hour. The trade-off is the resort bubble, with very little to walk to.

Most all inclusive resorts line Bávaro Beach, the white sand beaches from every Caribbean paradise brochure. An offshore reef keeps the water calm for swimming year-round, a safe bet with children. El Cortecito has the more affordable hotels. Cap Cana and Juanillo, just south of the airport, are gated, pricier and popular with couples.

Entertainment comes with the package: resort shows, casinos, Coco Bongo nightlife, snorkeling, scuba diving and golf courses like Punta Espada by Jack Nicklaus. If your travel plans revolve around sun, sea and relaxation, this is the perfect place. Nobody will make you do a walking tour.

Punta Cana | Where to stay in the Dominican Republic

Our second stop was Tortuga Bay. Beyond the resort, the region is packed with things to do. We swam in the turquoise cenote Hoyo Azul at Scape Park, ziplined across the jungle and took a nerve-racking drive to the summit of Montaña Redonda. At the top there are swings suspended over the edge of the mountain!

Best hotels in Punta Cana and Cap Cana

Tortuga Bay was entirely designed by Oscar de la Renta. A handful of villas and suites on the grounds of Puntacana Resort & Club, about 7 minutes from the airport. The villa managers are attentive without being intrusive. Exactly the right balance. Dinner at Bamboo, Caribbean meets Asian, was a highlight. Children are welcome.

Eden Roc Cap Cana is the only Relais & Châteaux property in the Dominican Republic, with 34 freestanding suites, each with a private pool, plus a beach club with an infinity pool and spa. It is about 15 minutes from the airport. Built for couples who want to see as few other people as possible.

Santo Domingo: a city stay in the Dominican Republic

Santo Domingo is the place to stay in the Dominican Republic for history, food and walking. The Zona Colonial is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We explored it on rental bikes, stopping roughly every 2 minutes for a photo. 2 or 3 nights is enough.

Plenty of visitors skip the capital on their way to the beach. Their loss. This is where you discover daily life: merengue and bachata from passing cars, baseball on every bar TV and la bandera, rice with beans and meat, for lunch. Or order sancocho, the traditional meat stew.

Make time for dinner at Pat’e Palo: the Tournedos with truffle is absolutely delicious. Do not miss the cute boutique Desirée Cepeda. For international brands, the shopping centers BlueMall and Ágora Mall are a short taxi ride away. Travelling solo? Book inside the Zona Colonial, explore on foot by day and take an Uber for longer distances at night.

Zona Colonial | Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Best hotels in the Zona Colonial

Hodelpa Nicolás de Ovando on Calle Las Damas occupies 3 connected houses from the early 16th century. There is a pool between the original walls and restaurant 1502 serves Dominican food. Historic architecture meets modern comforts. We stayed here for a couple of nights and it was comfortable.

Hotel Villa Colonial is located on Calle Sánchez in a townhouse from the 1920s. French owner, art deco touches, patterned tile floors and a dip pool. About a dozen rooms, each decorated differently. This is probably the option I will go for when I go back!

Casa Adefra is the budget pick: 9 lofts on Calle El Conde, a cooked breakfast every morning and a hot tub. No pool. Everything in the Zona Colonial is within walking distance.

Bayahíbe and La Romana: where to stay on the south coast of the Dominican Republic

Bayahíbe and La Romana are the base for sheltered Caribbean water, golf and boat trips to Saona Island. La Romana was my first stop, about 45 minutes from the airport. Bayahíbe is the fishing village down the coast where most Saona boats leave. This is the Caribbean Sea side: flat, clear and warm. A no-stress beach vacation, especially with children. La Romana also suits couples and snorkelers, with the reefs around Isla Catalina as the classic day trip.

On our first evening we had dinner at La Cantina in Altos de Chavón, a re-created 16th-century Mediterranean village on the Casa de Campo estate. I was sceptical when I heard “re-creation”. But this place is so beautiful! Order the Chorizo Tortilla and do not skip dessert…

Best hotels in Bayahíbe and La Romana

Casa de Campo Resort & Villas spans 7,000 acres. Every guest gets their own golf cart for the duration of the stay. Yes, really. There are 3 golf courses including Teeth of the Dog by Pete Dye, beaches such as Minitas, a marina and Altos de Chavón on the estate. More a town than a hotel.

Bayahíbe village itself is mostly large all-inclusives and simple guesthouses, and none of them scored high enough for this list. My advice: stay at Casa de Campo, or do Saona as a day trip from Punta Cana.

Cabarete and Puerto Plata: the north coast for kitesurfers

Cabarete is the wind sports town on the north coast, built around kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing and all the other water sports involving a board. Puerto Plata, further west, is the larger town with the resort strip at Playa Dorada.

It is known for adventure sports and history: the cable car up Mount Isabel de Torres, the 27 waterfalls of Damajagua and the 16th-century Fortaleza San Felipe. This is the Atlantic side: more wind, more waves, more people with a board under their arm. Evenings move to the bars along Cabarete beach, which is about all the nightlife this coast needs.

Best hotels in Cabarete and Puerto Plata

Natura Cabana Boutique Hotel & Spa has 11 bungalows in Perla Marina, between Sosúa and Cabarete. Yoga studio, spa, 2 restaurants and direct beach access. About 15 minutes from the airport. Peace, which on this coast is a selling point. A good place to relax after a day on the water.

Casa Colonial Beach & Spa is a boutique hotel on the beach at Playa Dorada, Puerto Plata. Colonial-style architecture, a rooftop infinity pool and a spa. The grown-up alternative to the big resorts on the same strip.

Jarabacoa: a cooler place to stay in the Dominican Republic

Jarabacoa is the mountain town in the Cordillera Central, nicknamed the City of Eternal Spring. Think pine forests, cold rivers and evenings where you actually want a jumper. Rafting on the Río Yaque del Norte and waterfalls like Salto de Baiguate and Salto de Jimenoa are the main draws. Fresh air and outdoor activities instead of beach bars.

Best hotels in Jarabacoa

The Grand Forest Jarabacoa is an eco retreat with around 12 cabins at more than 500 metres altitude. Sauna, massages, a pool and breakfast included. Rates start around 180 USD a night. Note: it is about 35 minutes by car from the town centre.

Hotel Pinar Dorado is the practical option in town: 29 rooms with a balcony, an outdoor pool with a bar and a cooked breakfast, about 500 metres from the centre. Rooms start around 100 USD a night.

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Best boutique hotels in the Dominican Republic

The best boutique hotels in the Dominican Republic are in Samaná and Santo Domingo, not in Punta Cana. These 5 are small enough to skip the wristband entirely.

1. Leeloo Boutique Hotel, Las Terrenas: 5 rooms, adults only, walking distance to the beach. The most peaceful pick on this list.

2. Mahona Boutique Hotel, Las Terrenas: 10 Balinese-style rooms plus villas with their own pool, less than 5 minutes on foot from the beach. No children under 12.

3. Hotel Villa Colonial, Santo Domingo: a 1920s townhouse with art deco details, a dip pool and about a dozen rooms.

4. Natura Cabana, Cabarete: 11 bungalows, yoga in the morning, the Atlantic in front.

5. The Grand Forest Jarabacoa: cabins in the pine forest, a sauna and nobody else in sight.

Want design without the price tag? Casa Adefra in Santo Domingo is the most affordable boutique stay in this guide.

Luxury resorts: where to stay in the Dominican Republic for a splurge

The luxury resorts in the Dominican Republic split into 2 camps: secluded villas with a butler feel, and big estates with everything on site. This is how I would choose.

Design and calm, children welcome: Tortuga Bay in Punta Cana. I stayed here.
Maximum privacy as a couple: Eden Roc Cap Cana, with a private pool in every suite.
Golf, space and a golf cart of your own: Casa de Campo in La Romana.
A bay view and a marina instead of a resort strip: The Bannister in Samaná.
The north coast: Casa Colonial Beach & Spa in Puerto Plata.

Follow along on my Instagram for the hotels and trips that have not made it to the blog yet.

Best things to do in the Dominican Republic

There is so much more to this island than lying horizontal by a resort pool. These are the activities I recommend, grouped by the base you will do them from.

From Bayahíbe: the boat trip to Saona Island was one of the most spectacular excursions of my entire trip. We drank coconut water straight from the shell and wandered past colourful wooden houses. On the way back the water turned so clear and blue that it looked Photoshopped. It is not. Want local food instead of a beach day? Try the half-day Dominican life and flavours tour from Bayahíbe.

From Samaná: whale watching on Samaná Bay runs from January to March. We visited Cascada Limón, a waterfall you reach on foot or by horse through the jungle. Getting there is an adventure in itself. A guided waterfall tour covers the best ones in a day.

From Punta Cana: Scape Park is home to Hoyo Azul, a turquoise cenote surrounded by cliff walls. The colour of the water is almost unreal. Add ziplining with Monkeyland access, a lesson at a surf camp or the swings on Montaña Redonda.

From Santo Domingo: a guided walking tour of the Zona Colonial gives you the stories behind the facades. We explored on rental bikes. A guided bike tour does the same with a guide who knows the shortcuts.

From La Romana: combine Altos de Chavón and Cueva de las Maravillas in 1 trip. The re-created village and a stalactite cave. 2 highlights, 1 day.

Hoyo Azul 

Found your hotel? Then you only need a plan for your days. In my Dominican Republic travel guide I share the waterfalls, boat trips and restaurants that made this trip, including the octopus at Luis.

Practical tips for where to stay in the Dominican Republic

Best time to visit the Dominican Republic

The best time to visit is between December and April, when the weather is dry and pleasantly warm. The Dominican Republic has tropical temperatures all year: in Punta Cana, daytime averages sit roughly between 25 and 31°C (77 to 88°F).

For whale watching in Samaná, aim for January to March. Summer months can bring rain. Hurricane season runs from June to November, and September and October are the most active months. Christmas, New Year and Easter are peak weeks: book places like Leeloo and Mahona well ahead.

Getting around between regions

Renting a car is the most flexible way to combine regions. Distances are bigger than the map suggests: Santo Domingo to Las Terrenas takes about 2.5 hours, to Punta Cana around 3 hours by bus. Between cities, the Caribe Tours and Expreso Bávaro buses are cheap and frequent. Shared minibuses called guaguas cover the shorter stretches. Uber works in Santo Domingo, Santiago and Puerto Plata, but not reliably in Punta Cana.

Want to use maps and apps from the moment you land? Download an eSIM from Saily before you fly. I use it on every trip. For longer trips, travel insurance with flexible cover is a good idea, especially if rafting or kitesurfing is on the list.

How to choose the right hotel

Start with what you want to do, then pick the area, then the hotel. Your activities and excursions shape the trip more than the room does. Whale watching and waterfalls mean Samaná, water sports mean Cabarete, cultural experiences mean Santo Domingo.

Beaches differ too. The Atlantic north coast has stronger waves, while the reef-protected beaches of Bávaro and the Caribbean coast around Bayahíbe and La Romana are calmer.

Then check safety and recent reviews. Caribbean humidity is hard on buildings, and a hotel that looked great a few years ago can feel tired today. For the hotels I have not stayed in myself, I only list places that score 8.7 or higher with recent guests. Several famous names did not make the cut.

Where to stay in the Dominican Republic as a solo traveller

The Dominican Republic is not the easiest solo destination. Resort areas are built for couples and families, and dinner for 1 at an all-inclusive buffet gets old fast. The 3 bases that work well alone: the Zona Colonial in Santo Domingo, Las Terrenas and Cabarete. All 3 have restaurants within walking distance and other independent travellers around. Stick to busy, well-lit streets at night, keep valuables out of sight and use Uber or a hotel taxi for longer rides after dark.

Looking for more Caribbean inspiration for your next trip? Read my tips for Aruba, Isla Holbox, Costa Rica and my best hotels in Belize.

Where to stay in the Dominican Republic: frequently asked questions

What is the best area to stay in the Dominican Republic?

Las Terrenas and the Samana Peninsula are the best area for boutique hotels, uncrowded beaches and a slower pace. Punta Cana is the better choice if you want a luxury resort close to the airport. Santo Domingo is the best city base for history and food.

Where should I stay in the Dominican Republic for the first time?

For a first trip, combine 2 or 3 nights in Santo Domingo with 4 or 5 nights in Las Terrenas or Samaná. Only have a week? Then 1 base in Punta Cana saves you long drives, with day trips to Saona Island and Scape Park.

Is it better to stay in Punta Cana or Samaná?

Samaná is better for boutique hotels, nature and fewer crowds. Punta Cana is better for all-inclusive resorts, quick airport transfers and easy beach days. Samaná takes longer to reach, but it felt like an entirely different country to me.

Is the Dominican Republic safe for solo female travellers?

Yes, the main tourist areas are generally safe for solo female travellers who take normal precautions. The Zona Colonial in Santo Domingo, Las Terrenas and Cabarete are the most comfortable bases alone. Avoid walking alone at night in unfamiliar neighbourhoods and use app taxis after dark, or ask the hotel to drive you somewhere. A good location is worth everything.

Do you need a car in the Dominican Republic?

No, but a rental car makes it much easier to combine regions. In Punta Cana and Santo Domingo you can manage without one. For Samaná, Jarabacoa and the north coast, your own wheels mean freedom to stop at waterfalls and deserted beaches.