Amalfi Coast Guide: Ravello, Positano, Highlights and Tips
Have you ever stood on a clifftop and thought: yes, this is exactly where I need to be? That was me the moment I first saw the Amalfi Coast. This stretch of southern Italian coastline sits about 90 minutes south of Naples. Cliffs drop straight into the sea. Narrow roads cling to the mountainside. Little villages seem to defy gravity. It is exactly as beautiful as every photo you have ever seen. This Amalfi Coast travel guide covers where to stay, what to do, where to eat, and how to survive the drive… These are all my personal recommendations!
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Introduction to the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is the kind of place that feels almost too beautiful to be real. It stretches along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula. Sheer cliffs, turquoise sea, and colorful towns tumble down the mountainside. Each iconic town offers its own unique charm. Positano with its pastel-hued houses, the historic heart of Amalfi, the tranquil gardens of Ravello, the lively streets of Sorrento.
What makes the Amalfi Coast truly unforgettable is the variety of experiences. Spend your days on a sun-drenched beach or sipping cocktails at a chic beach club. Set out on a boat tour to discover hidden coves. Food lovers will be in heaven, from family-run trattorias to Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a destination that delivers. Stunning scenery, vibrant culture, and memories that last a lifetime.
Amalfi Coast guide: when to go and how to get there
When to visit
The best time to visit the Amalfi Coast is May, early June, or September. The weather is warm and the sea is perfectly swimmable. Crowds are considerably more manageable than in July and August. High summer is beautiful but can feel overwhelming, particularly in Positano and Amalfi. If you are travelling in peak season, arrive early to beat the tour groups.
How to get there
The nearest international airport is Naples. From there, a private car transfer takes roughly 90 minutes to two hours. Alternatively, take a train to Sorrento and continue by local bus or ferry. Ferries from Salerno, Naples, and Capri run several times per day. The connections between Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, and Capri are excellent. Ferries are often the most pleasant way to travel between towns. Buses and ferries are both cheaper than private transfers or taxis.
For getting around independently, a rental car gives you the most freedom. Just make sure to book a small one. Seriously, the smallest one available. For easy, stress-free car hire, I recommend Discover Cars. Book in advance, especially in summer. Download a Saily eSIM before you leave. Stay connected for navigation and spontaneous restaurant bookings from the moment you land.
Public transportation options like buses are available and can be a cheaper way to get around the Amalfi Coast. The SITA bus system provides an affordable way to travel between towns.
Amalfi Coast Guide: driving tips for surviving the road
The Amalfi Drive is one of the most beautiful roads in the world. It is also one of the most terrifying. This winding road stretches for about 50 kilometres along cliffs that drop straight into the sea. It is barely wide enough for two cars. Then a giant tourist coach comes around a blind corner without slowing down. You briefly reconsider your life choices. The views, however, are completely magnificent. Rock faces on one side, impossibly blue sea on the other. Just breathe, hug the inside of the road, and never be in a rush.
Practical tips for the drive
Parking in Positano and Amalfi is extremely limited and expensive in high season. In Positano, paid parking is available above town. Walk down from there, but spaces fill up quickly. Buses between the main towns run frequently and are very affordable. Ferries between Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, and Capri are a brilliant and scenic alternative to driving. Taxis are available but costly.
Amalfi town centre | most beautiful towns Amalfi Coast
Amalfi Coast Guide: Best hotels
– Click on the names for rooms and rates –
My personal favourite is B&B Torre dello Ziro in Ravello. As soon as I saw the first photos, I knew this was the place. Host Lella makes you feel at home immediately. There is even a friendly cat wandering around.
The bathroom has beautiful hand-painted tiles, and the room looks straight out to sea. Every morning Lella bakes fresh cake or muffins for breakfast in the garden. The amazing views from that garden are something I still think about. Rooms from €120 per night (March to October).
ROOMS AND RATES TORRE DELLO ZIRO
More great hotels on the Amalfi Coast
If you want to stay in Positano, Le Sirenuse is the ultimate splurge. This legendary five-star hotel has been welcoming guests since 1951. Views over the bay are the stuff of travel daydreams. Beautiful rooms, a perfect pool, and restaurant La Sponda worth booking even if you are not staying there.
Another luxury option in Positano is Hotel Palazzo Murat, a historic boutique property in the heart of the village. Charming architecture and a lush garden oasis. Just steps from Positano’s vibrant streets, it offers tranquility in a central location.
In Amalfi town itself, the smaller boutique hotels offer great value and a central location for day-tripping. For those with a higher budget, Caruso, a Belmond Hotel in Ravello, is as dreamy as it gets. This 11th-century family home has been converted into a 50-room retreat with rose terraces and marble bathtubs.
Beaches and Beach Clubs – Amalfi Coast Guide
Beach clubs worth knowing
No guide to the Amalfi Coast would be complete without mentioning its legendary beaches and glamorous beach clubs. The coastline is dotted with pebbly coves and sandy stretches, each offering a different vibe. For a touch of luxury, the private beach at Hotel Poseidon in Positano is a dreamy escape. Plush chairs, attentive service, and panoramic views of the coast await.
Bagni Beach Club is a favourite for its lively atmosphere and delicious food. Duoglio Beach Club in Amalfi is perfect for combining a swim with a long, lazy lunch. Over on Capri, Fontelina Beach Club is the place to see and be seen. Striped umbrellas, stunning views of the Faraglioni rocks, and unbeatable people watching await.
Things to do: Amalfi Coast guide highlights
There is so much more to the Amalfi Coast than gazing at it from a terrace with a glass of wine, though that is very much encouraged. Here are the highlights that made the biggest impression on me, plus a few I still want to go back for.
The Path of the Gods
This is one of the most famous hikes in Italy, and for very good reason. Running for about 8 kilometres between Agerola and Nocelle, the trail sits high above the coastline. The views of the cliffs and the Mediterranean Sea make every uphill section completely worthwhile. Along the way, the path passes ancient terraces, wildflowers, and tiny settlements before finishing above Positano. Go early in the morning to have the trail mostly to yourself and bring plenty of water.
BOOK THE AMALFI COAST AND POSITANO BOAT TOUR
Boat trip to Capri
Book a boat trip from the Amalfi marina and you can reach Capri in about an hour and a half. I went with Amalfi Tours and loved the experience. Capri itself, I will admit, was a little overwhelmed by tourists when I visited. The boat ride there is genuinely spectacular. The views of the coastline from the water are stunning. Swimming in the sea along the way makes it completely worth it. The Blue Grotto and the Gardens of Augustus are the main sights to aim for once you arrive. Book the Capri boat tour with snorkeling in advance, or opt for the Amalfi Coast and Positano boat tour to see the most spectacular stretch of coastline from the water.
Ravello: the Amalfi Coast guide’s best-kept secret
Of all the towns on the coast, Ravello is my absolute favourite. Positano gets all the Instagram attention. Amalfi town buzzes with day-trippers. Ravello, however, sits 350 metres above sea level, wrapped in peaceful, ancient magic. The views are breathtaking. Terraced lemon groves tumble down to the deep blue sea far below. Beautiful panoramas of the valley appear from almost every corner.
Ravello offers a quieter atmosphere than Positano or Amalfi. Once you arrive, the pace slows immediately. Wander the Piazza Duomo and browse the ceramics shops. Then treat yourself to an Aperol Spritz with a panoramic view. You have earned it.
What to do in Ravello
Villa Cimbrone is an absolute must. This 12th-century estate has some of the most extraordinary gardens on the coast. The Terrazza dell’Infinito, or Infinity Terrace, offers fantastic views of the coastline that make you catch your breath. It is the kind of view you will talk about for years. Entrance costs around €7. Completely worth it.
Villa Rufolo is equally wonderful, with a 13th-century tower and beautifully planted gardens overlooking the sea. The estate is the setting for the famous Ravello Festival, held every summer. Verdi declared the garden to be the inspiration for his opera Parsifal.
For dinner in Ravello, check out Babel, a favourite for creative, beautifully presented dishes in a warm setting. Ristorante Salvatore is another excellent choice for traditional Campanian cooking with a serious focus on fresh seafood. Caruso, a Belmond Hotel, has one of the most romantic bars on the entire coast. Even if you are not staying there, the Bar Caruso is a spectacular spot for a sundowner.
Positano: beautiful, busy, unmissable
Visiting Positano is a highlight of any Amalfi Coast trip. Pastel-colored houses tumble down a steep cliff to a small beach. Luxury boutiques and restaurants appear at every corner, and the atmosphere is one of effortless Italian glamour. The Church of Santa Maria Assunta is a must-see landmark while you are there.
Be prepared to climb stairs throughout your stay, as many hotels are located on hills. Make sure to try the local lemon gelato, often served in a frozen lemon. Positano is extremely busy in July and August. Go early, explore the backstreets away from the main drag, and make time for Spiaggia Grande for a swim. Via Cristoforo Colombo offers the best panoramic view over the entire town. If you want to explore the area without navigating the drive yourself, the day trip from Sorrento to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello is an excellent option.
Amalfi town and the Duomo – Amalfi Coast Guide
The town of Amalfi is livelier and more typically Italian than Positano, and considerably flatter, which your legs will appreciate. The heart of the town is the Piazza del Duomo, lined with elegant cafes and shops. Here you will find the impressive 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral, a beautiful example of Arab-Norman architecture in southern Italy. Amalfi is also a great starting point for boat trips. The selection of local restaurants is surprisingly good.
Vietri sul Mare: ceramics and crowds you won’t find
At the eastern end of the coast, Vietri sul Mare is a genuine hidden gem. This small town is Italy’s ceramic capital. The craft appears on every surface: shop fronts, footpaths, building facades. It is far less visited than Positano or Amalfi. Prices are lower and the atmosphere is wonderfully genuine. This is the best place to buy a piece of hand-painted ceramic. The ultimate Amalfi Coast souvenir.
ALL AMALFI COAST ACTIVITIES AND TOURS
The streets of Ravello on the Amalfi Coast
Amalfi Coast Guide: Best restaurants
The food on the Amalfi Coast is extraordinary. Think fresh anchovies, hand-rolled pasta, grilled fish, and limoncello to finish. The local cuisine is renowned for its fresh seafood, pasta, and locally grown produce, particularly lemons. You will find them in pasta sauces, gelato, and granita. For a trendy, artisanal spot for light fare or smoothies, don’t miss Casa e Bottega. If you want to go one step further, book a cooking class and farmhouse visit to learn the secrets of Campanian cuisine firsthand. Or try the hugely popular pasta, mozzarella and tiramisù making class: a fun, hands-on experience and a genuinely delicious way to spend a few hours.
ALL THE BEST HOTELS ON THE AMALFI COAST
In Ravello
Babel: creative, beautifully presented dishes in a warm, characterful setting. One of my absolute favourites on the entire coast. See my full review there.
Right next door you will find Babel Wine Bar & Bistro. It is the perfect place for a long evening of exceptional local wine and small plates. The selection of Campanian wines is outstanding. The atmosphere is exactly the kind of relaxed, candlelit magic you come to Ravello hoping to find. Order the local white and let the evening take care of itself.
The Infinity Terrace at Villa Cimbrone deserves a mention here too. Technically it is a sight rather than a restaurant. The bar just inside the entrance serves drinks with one of the most extraordinary views in the world. Go at golden hour. For something more traditional, Ristorante Salvatore offers a classic Campanian menu with outstanding fresh seafood. Piazza Duomo restaurants lean a little touristy, but an Aperol Spritz there is practically mandatory.
In Positano
La Tagliata: a legendary farm-to-table restaurant in the mountains above Positano with a multi-course set menu and jaw-dropping views. Book well in advance and request a window seat.
Chez Black: right next to Spiaggia Grande, reliably good food and a wonderful front-row seat for watching Positano life.
Franco’s Bar: the go-to spot for drinks before dinner. The terrace view is unbeatable.
ALL AMALFI COAST ACTIVITIES AND TOURS
In Amalfi town
The seafood restaurants along the waterfront are generally excellent. For a more local experience, head up the side streets away from the main square. Look for places where the menus are handwritten. The Museo della Carta (Museum of Paper) is also a fun and unusual stop for just €7 entrance.
A wine detour worth every minute: Azienda Vinicola Sorrentino
If you are driving between Naples and the coast, stop at Azienda Vinicola Sorrentino on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. The winery sits on volcanic lava soil. That ancient geology does something quite extraordinary to the grapes grown here.
The wine has a depth and minerality you simply cannot find anywhere else. With the volcano looming overhead and the Bay of Naples glittering below, the setting is genuinely unforgettable. I bought several bottles to take home and immediately regretted not buying more. Go for a tasting, stock up, and factor in extra luggage space.
Budgeting and saving money on the Amalfi Coast
Visit in shoulder season
The Amalfi Coast can be a splurge, but with a little planning you can enjoy an amazing trip without breaking the bank. Visit during the shoulder season: April to June or September to October. The weather is still gorgeous and prices are much more reasonable. The towns are also less crowded. La dolce vita is easier to enjoy at your own pace.
Amalfi Coast guide: practical tips for your trip
A few things worth knowing before you go. The Amalfi Coast essentially shuts down between late October and Easter. Many hotels and restaurants close for the winter. The season runs roughly from March to October. May, June, and September are the sweet spot for weather, prices, and crowd levels. Book accommodation well in advance, particularly for July and August.
ALL THE BEST HOTELS ON THE AMALFI COAST
English is widely spoken in tourist areas, but a few words of Italian will get you a long way. The local currency is the euro. Mobile data can be patchy in some of the more remote hill villages. Download offline maps before venturing out. A Saily eSIM ensures reliable connectivity throughout your trip, without the fuss of a physical SIM card.
Amalfi Coast guide: frequently asked questions
What is the best base for exploring the Amalfi Coast?
Ravello is my personal favourite: quieter, cooler in summer, and far less crowded than Positano or Amalfi town. Amalfi town is the most practical base if you want easy access to ferries and day trips in every direction. Positano is the most beautiful, but also the most expensive and the hardest to get in and out of.
How many days do you need on the Amalfi Coast?
A minimum of four to five days gives you enough time to explore Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello properly. You can also do a day trip to Capri and hike the Path of the Gods. A week is even better if you want to add Vietri sul Mare, Praiano, and some proper beach time.
Is it worth renting a car on the Amalfi Coast?
Yes, with caveats. A car gives you wonderful flexibility to visit smaller villages and viewpoints that buses do not reach. The road is genuinely challenging, though, and parking is expensive and limited. In peak summer the traffic can be very slow. Always book the smallest car available. Prefer to avoid driving? Public buses are a more affordable alternative. They save you the hassle and cost of parking entirely.
What should you not miss on the Amalfi Coast?
Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, the Path of the Gods hike, a boat trip along the coast, the Duomo di Amalfi, Spiaggia Grande in Positano, and at least one very long dinner with fresh pasta and local wine. These are the non-negotiables.
When is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast?
May, early June, and September are the sweet spot. The weather is warm, the sea is swimmable, and the crowds are far smaller than in July and August. The coast closes largely from late October until Easter. Outside those months, options for accommodation and restaurants will be limited.
Conclusion and final recommendations – Amalfi Coast Guide
The Amalfi Coast is a destination that truly lives up to the hype. Every day here feels like a dream. Plan ahead and consider visiting during the shoulder season for a more relaxed experience and better value. Opt for a family-run hotel to enjoy warm hospitality and a more personal touch.
Don’t miss the chance to explore the coastline by boat. And above all, take time to wander, taste, and soak in the stunning views that make this region so unforgettable.
- Find the best hotels on the Amalfi Coast at Booking.com
- For the best day trips and activities check GetYourGuide.com
- Rent a car on the Amalfi Coast via Discover Cars
- Book your airport transfer at WelcomePickups
- Stay connected with an eSIM from Saily
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