This Mallorca travel guide is my second attempt at the island. The first and last time I visited Mallorca, I was a timid 18 year old and landed in a resort taken over by drunk Germans and intimidating club promoters. Swimming among floating diapers, I soon realized that the trip that had been fervently foisted upon me by a travel agency “didn’t quite” match my expectations. There was nothing “idyllic” about this place. I stayed, as one would say, “on the wrong side of the island.”

Time for a new visit! Mallorca, or Majorca as it is often spelled in English, is known for its beautiful bays, impressive cliffs, good restaurants and hotels. Made for a road trip. This time I drove the west coast from south to north and finished on the north coast, and I can already reveal: a totally different experience…. Spain and I have made up since, see also my guides to Ibiza and Formentera.

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Playa de Formentor | Mallorca travel guide

Mallorca travel guide: planning your road trip

A Mallorca road trip works best over a minimum of 7 days: 3 nights on the west coast around Sóller and 3 nights on the north coast around Pollença or Alcúdia. The island measures roughly 100 kilometres from end to end, but the mountain roads through the Serra de Tramuntana are slow. Reckon on 2 hours for what looks like 1 on the map!

My Mallorca road trip route

My route, in order: Palma de Mallorca, Sóller, Port de Sóller, Deià, Valldemossa, Alcúdia, Pollença and Cap de Formentor. That covers the Mallorca west coast and the north coast in one loop, with Palma at the start because the airport sits 20 minutes from the old town. If you only have a long weekend, do Palma plus Sóller and Port de Sóller and leave the north for a second trip.

Renting a car on Mallorca

A rental car is not optional here. Buses between the mountain villages take hours and often need 2 or 3 changes, so I would book the car before anything else: compare rental cars on Mallorca. The buses are a big ‘no bueno’ if you get carsick easily like me. In July and August the cheaper car categories are gone weeks ahead.

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1. Palma de Mallorca – Mallorca Travel Guide

Palma de Mallorca is the buzzing capital of the island. The city’s stunning architecture, including Palma’s Cathedral and the Almudaina Royal Palace, attracts millions of visitors each year. Stroll through the lively Old Town with cosy streets, Art Deco buildings and sun-drenched terraces. This tour of the Old Town is highly recommended!

Best restaurants and bars in Palma de Mallorca

Find a seat at one of the many fine restaurants for the tastiest tapas, including a well-deserved glass of cava…. or two. Another one for your list is restaurant Alma Palma. The ‘boquerones’ (fresh anchovies) were the highlight of our evening. Go to Bar Nicolás for the best cocktails, located on a pretty, little square. Feel like dancing? Then book this sunset cruise with a DJ! For brunch go to Brunchit. Get a proper cup of coffee at The Barn. Other great restaurants are Sa Placeta, La Malvasia, Fera Palma and Vagabundos.

Tip: from Palma runs a beautiful old train to my next destination: Sóller. You can also book a day trip for a unique experience!

Palma de Mallorca and restaurant Alma Palma | Mallorca road trip

2. Sóller on the Mallorca west coast

Surrounded by mountains and valleys, Sóller sits on the northwest coast of Mallorca. Right through the heart of the old center runs the famous, wooden tram, that takes visitors to Port de Sóller.

The historic center of Sóller, with cobblestone streets, colorful houses and a lively square, is bursting with good restaurants. I still dream about my dinner at the romantically located La Romaguera. Art café Miga de Nube, with a large courtyard garden, was my regular brunch spot. This is also an ideal spot if you need a latte & laptop session! For a tasty sandwich, go to Forn Sant Cristo. Shop at Octopus Home, Angel Agudo and MuLaTa. On Saturday there is a market on the main square. Stay at the lovely Hostel Sóller. My private room in the old building was huge. Unfortunately, there is no air conditioning during the day….

Sóller, La Romaguera and Miga de Nube art café | Sóller on the Mallorca west coast

Almost everywhere you eat, you will get “pan con aioli y olivas” as an appetizer; bread with aioli and olives. Way too delicious, so I had to visit my gym a little more often after returning home….

3. Port de Sóller

I fell in love with this photogenic port. The price level is a bit higher here though. When you have lunch at restaurant Agapanto, you find yourself in an old Mediterranean movie. What a spot! The nearby Patiki Beach is also a winner. Delicious dishes, friendly service and a super nice “Ibiza” atmosphere… don’t tell them..

Sleep at the ‘adults only’ Bikini Island & Mountain Hotel! So many photogenic rooms, so many nice details, a large pool with comfortable sun beds, including a blissful pool bar, fragrant room spray and the rooftop restaurant Neni. And let’s not forget the Donkey Bar, with dangerously good Lychee Margaritas. You will never want to leave the hotel! I loved it here and can’t wait to go back. Other recommendations in the harbor are Beach House, Petit Café, Villa Luisa, George’s and Bar Mar y Montaña.

Port de Sóller, the famous wooden train and Bikini Hotel | Mallorca travel guide

4. Deià

From Sóller, drive along winding mountain roads, not ideal for the talented car sick among us, to Deià. Be sure to stop at one of the many viewpoints along the way! Deià is the place where writers and artists gather, inspired by the mountains that drop straight into the sea. Here you will find tranquility and one of the most exclusive hotels in Mallorca: La Residencia. You can also visit the hotel for a fancy high tea at Café Miro. Other recommendations are restaurant Nama and Trattoria Italiana.

On the first photo restaurant Agapanto | Mallorca guide and best things to do

5. Valldemossa

The next stop is romantic Valldemossa. What a lovely little town! In the 19th century, composer Chopin loved to spend his time here. You can visit the man’s former residence, now transformed into a museum. Wander through the cloisters of the Royal Carthusian Monastery and the many atmospheric streets of this town. Valldemossa is still bursting with creative energy and works well for art lovers and romantics. Be sure to pop into Octopus Home here as well!

Road trip to Deià and Valldemossa | Mallorca road trip

If you leave early in the day you can visit Sóller, Deià and Valldemossa in one day. Personally, I would choose to stay somewhere nearby and take more time.

6. Alcúdia on the Mallorca north coast

After visiting the west coast, we continue our trip to the north. Alcúdia is a well-known coastal town, with a picture-perfect old center. The town was once an ancient Roman settlement and the remnants of that era are still clearly visible. Visit the market, buy local honey and cheese and get lost in the old streets. During a tasting you will discover the authentic flavors of Mallorca. A gorgeous beach nearby is Playa de Sant Joan. One of the most special hotels here is Bordoy Mostatxins! From Alcúdia you can spot dolphins! Book a boat trip and you will have the experience of a lifetime. You are guaranteed to see dolphins! LOVED IT.

Spotting dolphins from Alcúdia

7. Pollença

Perhaps my favorite town… Although it’s hard to choose. I had never heard of Pollença, but this town deserves a full afternoon! So many pretty streets, independent stores and good restaurants! You can combine a visit with a trip to the Cap de Formentor peninsula. Culinary recommendations are Dodo, Oh Vermut, Creperie Maduixa, One Touch, Bar Nau, La Placeta, restaurant Celler El Moli and La Mar Dolça. Shop at Âme Boho and Ocre. You can buy the best delicacies at Sol y Tierra. Climb Carrer del Calvari if you want to visit the famous Mirador del Calvari for a great view. The Calvari Chapel is a place of pilgrimage. Pilgrims climb the 365 steps as a symbolic act of devotion. After this devotion, you’ve earned a refreshing drink, and the town is bursting with cafes and terraces.

Pollença | Mallorca north coast

8. Cap de Formentor

What a natural wonder! Cap de Formentor, in the rugged north of Mallorca, has steep cliffs, crystal clear waters, sandy beaches (reminding me of Formentera) and spectacular, panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. The world-famous Playa de Formentor beach is a good stop, but even more impressive is Mirador de Es Colomer. What a view you have here! The lighthouse, built in 1863, cannot always be reached with your own car. Between June and September they use buses because of the crowds. Along the way we saw bicyclists, but unless you are tired of living, I would highly advise against this means of transportation. The winding roads are very dangerous because of the large buses and cars that come racing around the corners.

Cap de Formentor | Mallorca travel guide

I travel with an eSIM from Saily so my maps work the second I land, which matters more than usual on roads where the signal drops behind every ridge. For longer trips I also cover myself with SafetyWing, mostly because the winding roads here are exactly the kind of place where things go wrong.

Solo travel in Mallorca: an honest verdict

The first week I travelled with colleagues, but the second week I explored the island on my own. As a solo traveler, I found Mallorca a difficult destination. Restaurants often showed that they did not appreciate me coming alone. Two people at the table naturally spend more. The service was very arrogant in many places. In addition, I was mostly among couples in love and found little connection. This is not a destination I will be returning to solo anytime soon, but I did fall in love too; with the island’s beauty and of course the ‘pan con aioli y olivas’….

If you do go solo anyway, base yourself in Sóller rather than Port de Sóller. The town has life outside the hotel restaurants, the tram runs back and forth until late in the evening and a private room in the old hostel costs a fraction of a harbour hotel. I posted most of these viewpoints on my Instagram while I was driving around.

Port de Sóller | Mallorca travel guide

Mallorca Travel Guide: best things to do 

The 5 experiences I would book again on Mallorca: the old town walking tour in Palma, the historic train through the Serra de Tramuntana, the dolphin boat from Alcúdia, the boat trip to the Cap de Formentor lighthouse and a panoramic flight over Valldemossa.

The historic train through the Tramuntana is the one to do if you only pick a single thing, because it also solves the parking problem in Sóller. The 3 hour dolphin boat from Alcúdia leaves early and that is exactly why you see them. For the north coast, the boat to Playa de Formentor saves you the drive that everyone else is stuck in between June and September.

Free things that cost nothing: the 365 steps of the Calvari in Pollença, the Mirador de Es Colomer, the cloisters in Valldemossa and the Saturday market on the main square in Sóller.

When is the best time to visit Mallorca?

May, June and September are the best months for a Mallorca road trip. The sea is warm enough from June, the mountain roads are quiet and a table in Sóller is still free at 7pm. July and August are hot and busy, and that is the period when the road to the Formentor lighthouse is closed to private cars.

October still works if you mostly want towns and food instead of swimming. Between November and February a large part of Deià and Port de Sóller shuts down, including several restaurants and hotels, so check opening dates before you book anything on the west coast.

Mallorca Travel Guide: best hotels, from budget to high end

– Click on the names for rooms and rates –

Mallorca fits the whole price range into 30 minutes of driving on the west coast, which is the main reason a road trip works so well here. Hostel Sóller is the budget option, with big private rooms in an old building in the middle of town and no air conditioning. Bikini Island & Mountain Hotel in Port de Sóller is my favourite, adults only, around 300 euros per night with breakfast.

La Residencia in Deià is the high end choice and worth a high tea at Café Miro even if you sleep elsewhere. On the north coast, Bordoy Mostatxins is the boutique hotel in the old center of Alcúdia. Book the west coast first: there are far fewer rooms in Sóller and Deià than the photos suggest.

Mallorca Travel Guide: best restaurants

My 5 favourites: La Romaguera in Sóller for dinner, Agapanto in Port de Sóller for a long lunch, Alma Palma in Palma for the boquerones, Miga de Nube in Sóller for brunch and Café Miro at La Residencia in Deià for high tea. Reckon on 20 to 30 euros for a main course in Port de Sóller and Deià, and clearly less in Pollença and Alcúdia.

In Pollença I would go to Dodo, Oh Vermut or Celler El Moli. In Palma the tapas bars around the Old Town are the safe bet, and Sa Placeta, La Malvasia, Fera Palma and Vagabundos all delivered. Everywhere you eat, the bread with aioli and olives arrives before you order it.

Planning to visit more of Spain? Check all my guides for Ibiza, Formentera, Barcelona, Valencia and Nerja.

Mallorca travel guide: frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Mallorca?

7 days is enough for the west and the north coast at a calm pace: 3 nights around Sóller and 3 nights around Pollença or Alcúdia. With 4 or 5 days I would skip the north and stay between Palma, Sóller and Deià, because the driving times through the mountains eat more of your day than the map suggests.

Do you need a car in Mallorca?

Yes, for this route you do. Buses between the mountain villages can take hours and often need 2 or 3 changes, and the coastal viewpoints are not on any bus line. Book the rental car before you book your rooms in high season. If you only visit Palma, you can skip it entirely.

What is the best area to stay in Mallorca?

Sóller and Port de Sóller are the best base for the west coast, with Deià a short drive away. For the north coast, stay in Pollença or Alcúdia. Palma is the best choice if you want city, shopping and nightlife rather than mountains. Splitting your trip over 2 hotels saves you hours of driving.

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You can book THIS boat trip from Alcúdia to the Cap de Formentor lighthouse and Playa de Formentor.

Is Mallorca safe for solo female travellers?

Mallorca is safe for solo female travellers, but it is not a social destination. I walked back through Sóller and Palma late in the evening without any issue. The harder part is that restaurants and hotels here are built around couples, so eating alone gets you visibly slower service in the more expensive places.

Is Mallorca expensive?

Mallorca costs what you choose it to cost. A private room in a hostel in Sóller and a room at the harbour in Port de Sóller are a factor of 5 apart in the same week. Reckon on 20 to 30 euros for a main course on the west coast, less in Pollença and Alcúdia, and add the car plus fuel to your daily budget.