Did you know that Madonna visited Ambergris Caye in the 1980s and loved it so much she wrote a song about it? La Isla Bonita. Spending a few days here, you start to understand why. White sandy beaches, absurdly clear turquoise water, fresh lobster at every corner and cocktails that are dangerously good. Ambergris Caye, also known as San Pedro, is the largest island in Belize and sits right next to the second largest barrier reef in the world. Whether you are here for world-class snorkeling, hammock-swinging or simply working your way through the cocktail menu: this Ambergris Caye guide has everything you need.

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How to get to Ambergris Caye

From Belize City you can reach Ambergris Caye either by water taxi or by a short domestic flight. The water taxi takes about 75 minutes and is the most affordable option. A domestic flight gets you there in around 15 minutes and offers beautiful views over the reef on the way down. Once on the island, the main form of transport is the golf cart: you can rent one for the day or flag down a local driver. It is a small island, so getting around is refreshingly straightforward.

Before you go: make sure your phone is set up for travel. I always use a Saily eSIM so I can stay connected the moment I land, without the stress of hunting for a local SIM card at the airport. Download it in minutes and you are good to go.

Where to stay?

– Click on the names for rooms and rates –

The island has a solid range of options, from laid-back guesthouses in town to proper beachfront resorts just south of San Pedro. My recommendation: pay a little extra for a hotel with a private beach. The difference between dragging your suitcase through town to find a patch of sand versus stepping off your daybed directly onto the beach is not a small one.

I stayed four nights at Victoria House Resort & Spa, one of the oldest and most beloved resorts on the island. Two stunning pools, a gym, an excellent restaurant and a beach that looks like it was designed specifically for Instagram. As I shared on my Instagram, the Pina Coladas here are genuinely life-changing. Belize is famous for its rum and Victoria House makes excellent use of that fact.

ROOMS AND RATES VICTORIA HOUSE RESORT

Victoria House Resort & Spa | Ambergris Caye Guide

For more inspiration across the country, check out my overview of the 7 best hotels in Belize, from jungle lodges to beachfront retreats.

Snorkeling and diving: the Ambergris Caye highlights

The main reason most people visit Ambergris Caye is the water and rightfully so. Belize is home to the second largest barrier reef in the world, which means the snorkeling and diving here is genuinely world class. Two spots you absolutely cannot skip are Shark Ray Alley and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. At Shark Ray Alley you snorkel alongside nurse sharks and southern stingrays in surprisingly shallow water. It sounds alarming and is completely wonderful. Hol Chan is a protected marine reserve teeming with colourful fish, sea turtles and the occasional reef shark.

I booked my snorkeling trip through Raggamuffin Tours on Caye Caulker, which also turned out to be one of the best experiences of my whole Belize trip. If you are not planning to visit Caye Caulker, book a tour directly from Ambergris Caye. There are plenty of good local operators on the island.

THE BEST SNORKELING TOURS ON AMBERGRIS CAYE

More to explore in Belize | Ambergris Caye Guide

Ambergris Caye is a fantastic base, but Belize has so much more to offer beyond the reef. The ATM Cave is one of the most extraordinary experiences in all of Central America: an underground Mayan temple you swim and wade through, with ancient ceramics and skeletons still in place. Additionally, the jungle lodges of the Cayo District and the remarkable Caves Branch Lodge are well worth the trip inland.

THE ATM CAVE: MAYAN UNDERWORLD

Where to eat?

The food scene on Ambergris Caye punches well above its weight for a small Caribbean island. Fresh fish and lobster are on every menu, prices are slightly higher than the Belizean mainland but the quality is generally excellent. These are the spots I keep recommending.

Best restaurants on Ambergris Caye

Hidden Treasure: the best dinner I had on the island. Romantic atmosphere, genuinely warm staff and dishes that make you want to cancel your plans for the next day and just stay. Start with the bruschetta.

Robin’s Kitchen: famous for the Jamaican jerked chicken and completely worth the hype. Inexpensive, delicious and available to take away. Also: order the banana bread.

El Fogon: a local favourite where food is cooked on firewood in authentic Belizean style. The fish here is outstanding and on some evenings there is live music. Very good value.

DandE’s Frozen Custard: ice cream the way it is supposed to be made. I ordered the mint chocolate and immediately wanted a second scoop. Enter at your own risk.

Robin’s Kitchen: Jamaican Jerked Chicken, Ambergris Caye Guide

Island hopping – Caye Caulker and beyond

Ambergris Caye pairs beautifully with a few days on Caye Caulker, the small, car-free island just 30 minutes south by water taxi. Where Ambergris Caye is polished and resort-driven, Caye Caulker is all painted wooden houses, beach bars and the famous motto: “Go Slow.” The contrast between the two islands is exactly what makes a combined visit so worthwhile.

Furthermore, if you have more time, the coast of Hopkins and Placencia in the south is wonderful for a slower, more local experience. The beaches there are quieter and the food scene is seriously underrated.

MY GUIDE TO CAYE CAULKER
BLANCANEAUX LODGE BY FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA

Ambergris Caye guide: frequently asked questions

Is Ambergris Caye worth visiting?

Absolutely. Ambergris Caye offers some of the best snorkeling and diving in the Caribbean, beautiful beaches, a relaxed atmosphere and a surprisingly good restaurant scene. It is more developed than other parts of Belize, but that also means it is easy to get around and well set up for visitors.

How many days do you need on Ambergris Caye?

Four to five days is a sweet spot. That gives you enough time to explore the reef, visit Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley, rent a golf cart to cruise the island and still have a lazy beach day or two. If you combine it with Caye Caulker, add another two days.

What is the best time to visit Ambergris Caye?

The dry season runs from November to April and is generally considered the best time to visit, with calm seas and plenty of sunshine. The summer months can bring rain and wind, though the upside is smaller crowds and lower prices. Visibility for snorkeling and diving is best between March and June.

Is Ambergris Caye expensive?

Compared to the rest of Belize, yes. Ambergris Caye is the most tourist-oriented destination in the country, so accommodation and restaurant prices reflect that. Budget travellers can still find affordable guesthouses and local eateries in San Pedro town, but it is worth factoring in the higher price point when planning your trip.

Do I need a car on Ambergris Caye?

No, and there are actually very few cars on the island. Golf carts are the main form of transport. You can rent one for the day, use local golf cart taxis or simply walk between spots in San Pedro. It is a small island and getting around is refreshingly easy.

• Find the best hotels on Ambergris Caye at Booking.com
• For the best day trips and activities check GetYourGuide.com
• Book your eSIM at Saily

MY CAYO DISTRICT GUIDE
SOUTH BELIZE: HOPKINS AND PLACENCIA

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