Cayo District Belize: San Ignacio and the Wild West
A day before my flight to Belize, I feel a little nervous. This is my first solo trip to Central America! I decide to stay four weeks to really get a feel for the country. My first stop: the Cayo District in western Belize, with San Ignacio as its base. Jungle temples, ancient Maya caves, Mennonite communities and howler monkeys in the trees: Cayo District Belize delivers from day one.
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San Ignacio | Cayo District Belize
At the airport, my jetlag and I are picked up by a great transfer service. We drive through colourful villages, past kids in uniforms walking home from school. The road slowly becomes hillier. William drops me off near San Ignacio at my first stay: Lower Dover Field Station in the small town of Unitedville.
Photo above: my cabin at Lower Dover Field Station
First stop: Lower Dover Field Station
Lower Dover Field Station is basic but extremely welcoming, run by an American family. I have my own little cabin. There are animals everywhere on the property and they make their own hibiscus wine. Every night a home-cooked meal is on the table, with plenty of vegetables. I quickly become addicted to Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce, which appears on every table in Cayo District Belize. If you prefer something more boutique, Table Rock Lodge in Cristo Rey is a beautiful option set among jungle hills, with a river running through the property. Alma Del Rio is another gem: a small eco-lodge right on the water with a wonderfully calm atmosphere.
The holy tree of the Maya: the Tree of Life, also known as the Saba.
STAYING IN A TREETOP HOTEL IN BELIZE
I chose Lower Dover for its great location close to the main sights in Cayo District. There is even an archaeological Maya site on the property. Near the entrance is a river, where a very clean man with mysophobia washes himself four times a day. He was quite the attraction when a group of nuns came to visit. I settle in, make peace with my permanent sweat moustache and the insects, spiders and snake situation, and head out to explore.
The first photo: the temples of Cahal Pech. Below: a charming howler monkey.
Getting around: buses, reggae and rum billboards
Travelling by local bus in Cayo District Belize is an experience in itself. You hop on and off anywhere you like, tickets are very cheap and reggae music handles the soundtrack. Ropes serve as speed bumps. The trucks look like they belong in a film. Billboards for rum carry lines like “Because no good story ever started with juice.” I could not agree more. I quickly feel safe here. Most of the time I am the only white girl on the bus, but everyone is friendly and relaxed. The daily rice and beans with tender chicken and Marie Sharp’s Hot Sauce is delicious. Communication is easy, since English is the most common language in Belize. Follow along on my Instagram for more moments like this.
Staying connected in Belize is easy. I love using Saily when I travel because it lets me download an eSIM in minutes and stay connected as soon as I land. No roaming fees, no SIM card stress. Order your Saily eSIM here before you go.
The ATM cave (photo credits Pacz Tours) and Tikal, Guatemala
Things to do in Cayo District and San Ignacio
Is Cayo District good for solo travellers?
Cayo District is one of the best regions in Belize for solo travel. The local buses are a natural meeting point and the lodges around San Ignacio attract a steady stream of independent travellers. I never felt unsafe or lonely here. Tours to the ATM cave, Tikal and Xunantunich are done in small groups, so you find company without even trying. The Belizean friendliness does the rest.
There is a lot to see and do around San Ignacio. Must-dos in Cayo District Belize include the ATM cave, a horseback riding trip with Hanna Stables to the temples of Xunantunich (also known as “Tuna Sandwich” by locals) and a visit to Cahal Pech. An authentic Maya chocolate-making workshop at AJAW Chocolate & Crafts is also a highlight. On Saturdays, the farmer’s market in San Ignacio is worth a visit. It is also possible to do a day trip to the famous temples of Tikal in Guatemala. I booked with Get Your Guide!
Photos above: Goldie, my horse at Hanna Stables; the temples of Xunantunich (Tuna Sandwich); and the authentic Maya chocolate workshop at AJAW Chocolate & Crafts.
A 3-DAY SAILING TRIP FROM CAYE CAULKER
Mennonites and the laid-back Belizean way of life
In this area you will find a lot of Mennonites, essentially the Amish of Belize. There are several communities in the country and they run most of the farming. You will see them on the road with a horse and carriage and at markets. They speak a language close to German. It is surprising to see how a community this conservative gets along so well with the laid-back Belizeans. That says a lot about the tolerance here.
What’s next: Francis Ford Coppola’s jungle lodge
After these first days in Cayo District Belize, it is time to move on. Next up: two very special stays in the area. I am going to sleep at Francis Ford Coppola’s jungle lodge and spend a night in a unique treehouse.
CLICK HERE FOR MY VISIT TO AMBERGRIS CAYE
MY STAY IN PLACENCIA AND HOPKINS
Cayo District Belize: frequently asked questions
Is Cayo District safe for tourists?
Yes, Cayo District is generally considered safe for tourists. The most common issue is petty theft, so normal precautions apply. I felt safe travelling alone throughout the area, including on local buses.
What is the best base for exploring Cayo District?
San Ignacio is the best base. It is a lively town with good restaurants, affordable accommodation and easy access to all the main sights, including the ATM cave, Xunantunich and Tikal in Guatemala.
How do you get from Belize City to San Ignacio?
The easiest option is a shuttle service such as William Shuttle, which takes around two hours. You can also take a local bus, which is very cheap and a fun experience in itself.
What are the must-dos in Cayo District?
The ATM cave is the standout experience. Beyond that, visit Xunantunich and Cahal Pech, go horseback riding, join a chocolate workshop at AJAW and consider a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala.
Can you visit Tikal from Cayo District?
Yes. Pacz Tours runs both day trips and two-day tours to Tikal from San Ignacio. The two-day option is worth the extra time since Tikal is enormous and genuinely deserves more than a rushed visit.
- For the best hotels in Cayo District go to Booking.com
- Find the best tours and activities at GetYourGuide.com
- Rent a car with Discover Cars
- Book flights at Trip.com
- Stay connected with an eSIM from Saily
HOW TO VISIT THE ATM CAVE
THE 10 BEST HOTELS IN BELIZE
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